Patagonia dicembre 2015 gennaio 2016

Torre Egger, Psycho Vertical

Prima ripetizione, in stile alpino.

950mt 6c A3, 90°,M8

La Patagonia e le sue montagne incredibili, paesaggi mozzafiato e vie leggendarie, come non sognare una salita come questa.

Psycho Vertical é una linea evidente nel cuore di una parete impressionante qui ci si confronta a mito e leggenda, ad Alpinisti e uno stile di altri tempi.

La via é stata aperta nel 1986 dagli Sloveni Karo, Knez e Jeglic, con impiego di corde fisse, mai ripetuta, mai tentata, qui i gradi contano poco, basta leggere i nomi dei primi salitori, il nome della via, guardare il tracciato diretto e dalla verticalità implacabile, tutto cio stimola molto la mia mente, e piu che mai sento che questa pazza idea di andare a provare una via simile é la ragione per cui sono qui in Patagonia per la quarta volta.

All' inizio di gennaio dopo tanto maltempo abbiamo una chance di fare qualcosa di bello.

Per questa via straordinaria ho potuto contare sulla presenza rassicurante dei miei compagni Tomas Roy Aguilo e Roli Striemitzer

Ci armiamo di tanti camalot di tutte le taglie, qualche chiodo, nessuno spit due giorni di cibo e bivacco leggero.

Sotto un sole splendente schiacciati sotto il peso degli zaini copriamo tutta la distanza che separa il villaggio dal Noruegos, scopriamo con stupore che due amici Argentini

Carlitos e Inaki sono al bivacco e che hanno lo stesso nostro progetto.

Per questa via non avevo nessun dubbio che la convivenza in parete avrebbe comportato diversi pericoli. Senza piano B, decidiamo di scalare davanti e affrontare ogni ostacolo e problema passo a passo.

All'una del mattino partiamo in direzione della parete. La neve non ha gelato e facciamo la traccia nella neve bagnata.

Roli sale i primi tiri del canale, non facili, a causa della neve poco consolidata nei tratti piu verticali. Dopo questi 4 tiri siamo felici di lasciare questo pericoloso canale.

Tomi attacca la parete di granito verticale su roccia ottima ma con qualche blocco instabile...

Dopo aver sfiorato l'incidente decidiamo di unire le due cordate di modo a ridurre i rischi. Io e Tomi ci dividiamo la scalata e

i ragazzi dietro di noi saliranno con le jumar con il duro compito di portare su gli zaini pesanti

Dopo un difficile tiro di artificiale Tomi mi passa la corda e continuo lungo una serie di fessure e diedri sempre piu bagnati e strapiombanti. L'ambiente é impressionante ma stiamo avanzando secondo i piani.

Dopo il canale con tratti di ghiaccio verticale,

il grande diedro inferiore ed il tratto con due tiri di artificiale difficili, raggiungiamo una zona con grandi fessure strapiombanti all'incirca a metà parete.

Sentiamo il vento soffiare attraverso il Colle e una nuvola avvolge la montagna, la meteo lo prevedeva e siamo fiduciosi che il giorno seguente sarà molto bello.

Dobbiamo trovare un posto da bivacco adatto al nostro gruppo ed un triangolo di ghiaccio ai piedi di un diedro strapiombante sembra essere quanto di meglio possiamo sperare di trovare in questa parete verticale.

I ragazzi iniziano a tagliare il ghaccio mentre io vado a fissare le corde lungo il magnifico tiro sopra il bivacco, tutto bagnato, salgo piano piano sperando di asciugarmi un po. Al calare della notte e dopo aver lottato contro una sezione con molto verglas fisso le corde e scendo a raggiungere i ragazzi alla cengia e bere infine qualcosa di caldo.

La notte fu molto scomoda, Tomi appeso a un paio di viti entra in parte nell'haulbag.

Noi dividiamo in quattro una piccola cengia inclinata,cerchiamo di riposare ma scivoliamo di continuo verso il basso.

Fortunatamente il vento cala come previsto e la giornata si annuncia molto bella. Scaldati dal sole riprendiamo la salita.

Risalgo la corda che ho fissato la sera precedente poi Tomi sale un tiro in artificiale gia molto bagnato ed un bel tiro in libera.

La scalata diventa piu su misto passo davanti contento di lasciare le jumar.

Fa molto caldo e per raggiungere il diedro superiore piu protetto dobbiamo attraversare una parte molto esposta alle cadute di ghiaccio.

Il diedro é fradicio e c'é molto ghiaccio alterno dry tooling e artificiale lungo il diedro superiore per diversi tiri.

Dopo tanta lotta iniziamo a pensare che forse ce la faremo ma ogni tiro sembra piu duro del precedente.

Sbuchiamo infine sotto i funghi di vetta molto contenti e oramai piu fiduciosi.

Salgo un tratto di misto molto bello ed un tunnel nei funghi per sbucare in vetta al tramonto. Siamo molto felici e una volta riuniti tutti in vetta possiamo festeggiare mangiare qualcosa e bivaccare comodamente.

La discesa il giorno seguente fu molto complicata a causa delle corde piu o meno rotte dalle tante risalite a jumar

Le ultime doppie le facciamo sotto una cascata d'acqua e colate di neve, siamo stanchi e le corde quasi tutte piu o meno rotte.

Con molto sollievo raggiungiamo tutti e cinque il ghiacciaio nel pomeriggio, giusto in tempo per iniziare la lunga marcia verso el chaltèn molto felici per avere riuscito questa grande avventura.

Korra Pesce

Alba sulle Torri dalla tenda al Campo Polacos

 

Salendo verso la Aguja Rafael

Approfittiamo di un tempo incerto per salire la Aguja Rafael

La scalata benché protetta dal forte vento era complicata a causa del bagnato

Cumbre

il giorno seguente il bel tempo inaspettato rende la scalata del Mocho molto piacevole

La Sud-Est della Egger vista dalla cima nevosa del Mocho

L'impressionante e esposto diedro Superiore

I funghi di vetta

Il primo tiro fuori dal ripido e pericoloso colatoio iniziale

il diedro inferiore che Tomi ha scalato con molta bravura presenta sezioni di 6c e A2

Roli con le Jumar sul diedro Rosso foto Carlito

passo davanti nel pomeriggio e risalgo i diedri della parte centale della via

nonostante la nostra inesperienza in materia di risalite a jumar e scalata artificiale abbiamo avuto il tempo di adattarci e sviluppare un minimo di efficacia

Il forte vento ci ha spinto a non salire troppo in alto sulla parete e avendo solo l'obbligo di non ritrovarci a dormire appesi agli imbraghi abbiamo con piacere rallentato a metà via dove abbiamo trovato un cono di ghiaccio nel quale abbiamo potuto tagliare una cengetta

io per scaldarmi fisso le corde nel tiro successivo quello che ha necessitato l'uso del Camalot 6

I ragazzi si occupano di tagliare nel ghiaccio una banchetta per 5
 

ilnostro bivacco nel diedro visto dalla discasa dal lato est del colle della Conquista che separe la Egger dal Cerro Torre
la cengia é ben visibile

il giorno seguente con una meteo ottimale puntiamo alla vetta ma le scariche di ghiaccio ci fanno temere per la nostra incolumità

per guadagnare in velocità e limitare l'esposizione sotto le colate d'acqua salgo alternando Dry Tooling e un po di artificiale

dopo aver colpito un compagno con un blocco di ghiacccio raddoppiamo di prudenza siamo vicini alla fine ma ogni tiro presenta difficoltà e pericoli importanti

la scalata offre tiri incredibili in un posto privilegiato dove ho scalato spesso nei miei sogni

finalmente usciamo dal diedro e raggiungiamo l'uscita della via Titanic di Orlandi, Giarolli e co.

un tiro in un tunnel e usciamo dalle difficoltà

le ombre si allungano sul cordon del Fitz Laguna Torre e lontano il Chaltén

cumbrree!

Inaki

il giorno seguente seppelliamo un biobag per la prima doppia

la discesa è spettacolare

passaggio obbligato dal colle della conquista

sulla est del Torre sopra il nevaio triangolare non vediamol'ora di toccare il ghiacciaio ma anche di poter tornare su questa parete

la discesa con le corde distrutte é stata piuttosto epica per fortuna nessuno si é fatto male
a volte il beltempo non aiuta per nulla,certe pareti si trasformano in trappole per topi

                                             

Grandes Jorasses,Pointe Croz, Manitua 1100mt (7a,A0) first day ascent

Manitua is a very respected route and one of the most sought after Jorasses Routes is a household name one that made tons of climbers rave about. It was one of the many masterpieces of Slavko Sveticic one of the heads in my own Mount Rushmore of Alpine Climbing. The Slovenian opened the route alone in three and a half days in 1990, it has been repeated some fifteen times ca since, a curious number of these repetitions came in wintertime, which is quite odd as it's pretty much one of the very few Jorasses rock routes.I have been trying to avoid this route for years as it always looked obvious to me that it was a pure climb possibly offering nice free climbing therefor a summer climb. Climbing in summer in the north face of Grandes Jorasses is tricky. For ones the face is often partially covered in verglas, then the few good summer where the route can be dry enough not to be a tricky affair, generally held such a warm weather that made the face instable and pretty dangerous. How dangerous? hard to say. Let's say that is enough dangerous to push people like me  well away for years,to then finally say fuck it, let's do it, for others like the friends who made the 2nd day ascent one day after it was just an aftertought,for most is no hell i'm not going there in summer! i understand them.
Together with Tomas Mueller one of my very favourite climbers we worked on Mont Blanc and raved about climbing something, we packed for Manitua just as i came back from a guiding day on Peigne where i stupidly sprained my middle finger in a way i felt it jeopardize our chance of success.
We jumped on the train at 17h with the new weather report under our eyes, freezing level at 5000mt...daffuq! what we do? we jumped off the train before it even took off it was possibly the lamest most hilarious attempt at a climb on Jorasses ever. We decided to drink something to decide what we do. We catched up with the friends who came down from a slick repeat at Divine Providence on Mt Blanc. We were clearly under pressure we wanted to climb badly the weather was perfect but those temperatures...and what about that swollen finger? i could barely fill my backpack without pain. The following morning up we went. I'm generally quite cold against over ballistic missions and always toughtful about the real motivation beyond going up to climb something hard or dangerous. I felt we were doing it because we had to. I was nevertheless curious about how i was very positive about the outcome ,enough to ignore the fact that i was downclimbing the ladders to the Mer de glace using only my good hand and did most of the approach to Leschaux hut holding ice in my left hand to recover faster. At the hut we observed the face for the whole day try to scope a good reason not to go. Together with Chloe the hutkeeper and his cat we drank and eated, watched and studied the route. We slept well i rarely do before a big route. I knew i could count a lot on Tomas one of the best climbers in the valley and i had to think about that picture i saw somewhere with the print of Tommy Calwell hand with a missing finger and the caption No Excuses. We started some minutes before 2am and took a very leisurely pace to take us to the base, i negotiate the lower choss and we got to the base of the shield when the first sunrays touched the NE orientated wall. Tomas started up some slabbish terrain a well awakening pitch with a section not well protected. I hold my breath as i started to follow, my finger did not like the small crimps but i always had a efficient solution,we were cruising!With Tomas on the lead we climbned nice corners and overhangs occasionally throwing large chunk of rock down the glacier.
I took the lead for a couple of pitches one of them was finally pretty tricky on a vertical  7a+ slab with microscopic holds and fortunately some pegs. We were quickly at the base of a overhanging pitch were we had to choose between an A3 dripping wet or a 7c also wet. Tomas choose the 7c who seemed dryer. At 12h15 we were eating and chilling on the upper neve and getting ready for the upper choss who gave problems to many parties before us. I follow the original Manitua exit and we quickly dispatched an instable section to reach the base of the last tower. We climbed straight up and touched the top at 15h30, it seemed like we would sleep in our bed that night,great. The boring and dangerous descent took some 5h and we finally catched up with Simon and Buschka who were so kind to come pick us up. Another cool day up on the face ended well. Looking forward to the next

Photo Morgan Baduel

Photo Morgan Baduel

Tomas Mueller at the base of the shield of Pt Croz

ChossSome climbing

Awesome climbing

Ajouter une légende

Grandes Jorasses - Rolling Stones 1200mt 6a-M8

photo Griffith

It's April the winter is gone, in Cham you can tell it's April when you go by the Midi cablecar and feel like the all world is there. Skiers have more gear hanging around the harness they go for steeper stuff. The PGHM avalanche dog work less but  the crevasse dog and the slip-on-a-icy- slope dog works a lot. You can tell is April when sitting outside Elevation you heard the recognizable voice of Marko Prezelj and discover is already that time in the year he complain for the piolet d'or they gave him the Piolets d'Or events starts. This time he came retrieve the price together with Luka Lindic who last year, with Luka Krajnc, climbed Rolling Stones in beautiful style, free ad onsight. It was alleged for years Rolling Stones might as well go drytooled but everyone doing it just reported slabbish terrain and tricky aid on loose rock. The mistery was there. It took me years to convince myself and my partner we could do it, then, when the time came we were beaten by the two young guns coming from Slovenia.
 Since then i had mixed feeling about the route as a part of me wanted badly to finally do it and another pushed me toward other challenges. I did both first the other challenges and then the route.
One of the reasons it take long before we finally gave it a go is that, for virtually everyone beside me and  Martin it was seen as a at least three bivies affair, something who need massive window of good weather. If the winter ascents carried in with a large haulbag and lots of aid took long (4/5 bivies for the 4 winter ascents recorded before the last year ascents),seemed natural, the fact that a onsight ascent took still 3 bivy plus one on top made ourself worried about the route might just taking forever however we climbed it.
 The idea of getting caught by a coming storm up the face  wasn't really appealing.
 Finally Martin and i convinced ourself it was time to go and that three nights on the mountain will be enough.
 Not that we were going to be quicker than the two Luka but we were going to do it in not as beautiful style. Both climbers climbed all the route free.
We will have the leader climbing free if is able to and the second coming up as he like to do.
We also could benefit to some  beta kindly handled right from them.
We packed a double set of cams up to two one three some stoppers,4 icescrews The always useful five pitons who we didn''t use as usual. we both had sleeping bag. two mats even smaller than the smallest ledge we could find and two gaz canisters, of which we used only one. We took double 7.3 ropes and a jumar for the second.
Sunday morning, perfect weather, we step into the cablecar, talking with Martin i look at his harness i see his belay plate and realize i borrow mine to one of the girls of the alpinism team i worked with last few days. Shit. After much thinking and afraid to lose time i finally figured it out ,we would stop at the Requin Hut on the way down and borrow one, thanks Laure!
The awful ski down on frozen tracks was bad and gave us an excuse to enjoy a coffee and some time at the hut after all we had three days of food nothing to stress about. We resume the descent and shortly after we put the skins on and entered the Leschaux glacier.
 Finally we could see the massive face. It was about time.
 Rolling Stones start right off  the lowest point on the face on the left side of Walker spur, we changed from skis to mountain boots and approached the bergshrund who looked not too easy.
 After much cleaning finally Martin could step over it ,size matters. Whe continued with Martin on the lead for all of the beutiful vertical snow and some mixed climbing, then we traversed into easier terrain to start up the vertical compact wall. A first pitch with good ice then a red steep wall, Martin starts up and tried some drytooling,i heard the noise of a piton falling down the face,strange i have the pitons with me.
It was the pick of his ice axe broken neatly! shit!
 Now with what we had left we could barely do some gardening, i thank myself for suggesting the jumar as climbing with a single ice axe ain't easy.
I took the lead the route now is pretty hard and some delicate drytooling was required to overcame slabs and tenous cracks.
The routefinding was not easy and the topo really unclear. It started getting dark while i was on a nice runnel we had seen in a picture from last year.
 I climb another steep crack and found myself on some bad ledges. Martin went looking on the right and started chopping on the snow 15mt right of the route. I organize the gear at the belay and after a while we finally get our meal and sleeping bags.
We were not sure about were we were. We wanted badly to reach R9 and turn out we reached R13.
The night wasn't terrible and some spindrift started early morning. Weather was excellent tho and we even enjoy some morming sun but the spindrift were not fun. after reversing back to the belay  i started traversing a long slab under a overhang, then another difficult pitch to enter a icy goulotte.
We were not worried about going fast as we were certain to reach the bivy ledge of R22 by late afternoon. Martin led his block with some nice ice climbing on it. In the meantime the wind grew stronger and i was pretty much feeling cold. It was with pleasure that i took back the rack for some steeper pitches to take ourselves at the base of  the crux pitch.
A ledge at the base gave us promise of a decent bivy. It was only 6pm but i was cold and was not keen to try that hard dangerous pitch not feeling 100percent.
We spent the remaing hour and a half of daylight organizing the bivy in hope to save time the following day. That nigh it was clearly windy we could hear it howling close to the ridge and i was even more worried as i started develop cough and some chest pains.
When the sun came out it was cached beyond a layer of clouds it was a pretty bad news. I was going to accept Martin's offer to lead the pitch as he's a well gifted free and aid climber. Then while we were getting breakfast the wind mellowed and the sun got stronger than the cloud and warmed us for real. I was back in sending mood.
Another late start but we still have plenty of time left. I climbed carefully taking the time to test holds and jams. Surprisingly i found myself at the belay without much fuss ,great. This pitch is a little bit like climbing at the Zoo only a bit more dangerous ;)
The second pitch i started up a steep crack then traversed a beautiful slab hooking very tiny holds,
maybe it would have easier to climb barehanded but i had sweaty hand and was afraid not being able to put my gloves back afterwards so i tooled it, i searched for a logical place to made a belay but i did not found it so i continued up a steep crack for several meters until i finally reached the hanging goulotte i stratched the rope and made a belay on the upper ramp. Phew. Very happy to be out of those difficulties, i waited as Martin selflessly followed with our packs. From the upper ramp i had contemplate joining the Desmaison route as it looks elegant and with nice ice, but our crampons were dull and it wasn't going to be possible for the second without much jumaring so we kept to the actual route which to be onest is still interesting sporting beautiful rock first, then a nice vertical icy chimney, to finally reach Walker spur at the Cheminées Rouges.
The summit is approaching and as Martin take the lead i started enjoying the view and check if there isn't another line who draw my psyche it took me a few seconds to see one.
 That's always the same with this wall not even the time to enjoy a route and i'm already thinking about the next. It's clearly a special wall for me. Summit time at 6pm then a three hours crawl in awful snow until Boccalatte we finally could rest our bones.
 It was another fantastic trip with Martin who climbed his 5th hard Jorasses route in 14months. It was also my 13th overall in the north face. The most sustained and the one with the coolest free pitches.
Thanks to Luka and Luka to provide the psyche with their beautiful ascent.
 Epic first ascent by the Czech or Slovaks Kutil,Prochaska,Schlechta,Svejda in summer 1979.
Big congrats to Grison and Grammond for their early (1984) first repeat and winter ascent. Karo,Jeglic,Sveticic for the second repeat in summer 85.
 Then to the party Benoist-Thinières. Christophe Moulin's team, Glairon Rappaz and Perillat-Merceroz for their January ascent. And off course to those who have done and didn't bother sharing it with everyone else or those who think secretely that they done it because it's cool to say they've climbed Rolling Stones on Jorasses but they didn't.  And off course thanks to my partner in climbing my gear without with i would be lost. La Sportiva for the Baturas. Black Diamond for all the rest.

Rolling Stones 1200mt M8-6a, 35+pitches 12/14 april with Martin Elias
climbed free the 10 or so hardest pitches but not the entire route.